Music Pairings

k.d. lang album
One of last year’s musical pleasures was K.D. Lang and the Siss Boom Bang: Sing it Loud, which joined the smooth-as-… what’s the word we’re looking for? It’s not silk, it’s more like butter, no — wait! — smooth-as-velvet-singer, with a fresh group of musicians for a lush album of ballads, all original except for an interpretation of Talking Heads’ “Heaven.” With one of the best voices in popular music, K.D. brings these languid songs to life with her muscular combination of power and intimacy.

Chicken Piccata

Chicken Piccata

Chicken Piccata? Really? Doesn’t seem like a dish synonymous with the sous vide technique, I must agree. But as most of us know, chicken breasts cooked sous vide are outstanding — perfectly and evenly cooked, moist, and tender.

Oh, and very white. It’s that perfectly pallid color which is at odds with the idea of Chicken Piccata, a dish which is richly golden because it’s sautéed, not poached. This brings me to Pete’s latest brainstorm – velveting.

During a recent episode of America’s Test Kitchen, he witnessed the transformation of poached chicken breasts from dead white to golden brown via a Chinese technique used in stir fries. Velveting relies on a simple paste of flour, cornstarch, and butter to coat the exterior of meat in preparation for a very quick, high-heat sear.

Sure enough, the idea works beautifully on sous vide chicken, and when sauced with a reduction of chicken stock, lemon juice, capers, and parsley, Chicken Piccata is reborn.

Serves 6

6
large (8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts
 
Kosher salt
 
Freshly ground black pepper
 
Canola oil
¼
cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

For the sauce

1
cup concentrated chicken stock (boil 2 cups good-quality canned broth or stock until reduced by half)
¼
cup dry white wine
3
tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3
ounces capers, drained
2
tablespoons cold unsalted butter
 
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the velveting paste

2
tablespoons all-purpose flour
2
teaspoons cornstarch
 
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼
cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted

  1. Preheat the water bath to 143°F (62°C).
  2. Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper. Place 2 breasts in each of 3 food bags and vacuum seal.
  3. Cook for at least 1 hour, or up to 3 hours.
  4. While the chicken is cooking, prepare the sauce. Combine the concentrated stock, wine, and lemon juice in a saucepan. Reduce the liquid by half over medium heat. Stir in the capers and set the sauce aside at room temperature until 10 minutes before serving time.
  5. To make the velveting paste, combine the flour and cornstarch in a small bowl. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Whisk the melted butter into the mixture, creating a smooth paste. Set aside at room temperature.
  6. Just before serving, remove the chicken breasts from the food bags and transfer them to a paper-towel-lined sheet pan or platter. Pat dry with additional paper towels. Cover with foil to keep the meat warm. Add the bag juices to the saucepan with the lemon-caper sauce. Bring the sauce to a boil over high heat and whisk in 1 to 2 teaspoons of the velveting paste to give the sauce a slight body. Reduce the heat to low, whisk in the cold butter, and keep the sauce warm.
  7. Heat 2 large cast-iron skillets over medium-high heat and film with canola oil. Brush the presentation side of the chicken breasts with the velveting paste. Place 3 breasts, coated side down, in each of the hot skillets and sear them for 1 minute, or until nicely golden. With tongs, transfer each chicken breast to a warm dinner plate, golden side up. Top each breast with some of the lemon-caper sauce. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately.

2 comments to Chicken Piccata

  • Art Krumsee

    Made this for dinner last night. This is a wonderful recipe. The results are among the best things that have ever come out of my kitchen.

    Interestingly, I’d seen the Test Kitchen article about velveting and then browning chicken and had tried it once with so so results. The paste didn’t stick well to the chicken in the frying pan. I think I didn’t dry the chicken well enough before brushing on the paste. This time I was thorough with the paper towels and the chicken browned perfectly.

    Thanks for a great dish.