Music Pairings

Potato Hole Cover

Who doesn’t love a potato? You’d think we’d find about a po-billion songs about our favorite root vegetable, but not so. Sure, there are Potato Head jazz tunes and Mashed Potato dances and single-entendre blues about Diggin’ my Potatoes, but no real true potato love.

Booker T. to the rescue. His 2009 “Potato Hole” album united the great Stax/Volt keyboard player with Neil Young and the Drive-By Truckers. Here’s how he described the result to the Onion’s AVClub: “I like to think of this album, ‘Potato Hole,’ as my personal potato hole. [It] starts with the slave days, when slaves had to dig a hole in an inconspicuous place in the cabin, just to keep the food cool. That’s where they would hide the food. The analogy for me is that this album is my potato hole, it’s where I put my goodies, where I have my stuff stored to keep it cool.”

The recording, which won a Grammy for Best Pop Instrumental Album, is a fine, fine set of tunes, cool, soulful, and groovy, just right for kitchen accompaniment. And it pays proper tribute to the value of the potato.

  • Pound it Out
  • She Breaks
  • Hey Ya
  • Native New Yorker
  • Nan
  • Warped Sister
  • Get Behind the Mule
  • Reunion Time
  • Potato Hole
  • Space City

Get it on iTunes and Spotify.

Roasted Potatoes via Blumenthal and Thornton

Roasted Potatoes via Blumenthal and Thornton

After we purchased Heston Blumenthal at home we made his roasted potatoes several times with great success. His method is to first run water over the potatoes for 15 minutes to remove the starch and then boil the potatoes until they are nearly falling apart. Next you dry the spuds and roast them for 1½ hours. True, it sounds like a lot of work for roasted potatoes, but these really were the best we’ve ever had — very crisp on the outside and deliciously tender on the inside.

Not long afterward, we read an article about how Michelin-starred, Dublin-based chef Kevin Thornton makes chips (as they call fries in Ireland). He vacuum seals the potatoes in salted water and steams them before frying them twice. The result is that the salt penetrates the potatoes perfectly and there’s no need to add salt to the finished dish.

We tried Thornton’s method but cooked the potatoes sous vide rather than steaming them and the chips were great. However, it was a lot of work to fry the potatoes twice at two different temperatures.

So we thought, why not use his method for the initial cooking in Heston’s roasted potato recipe. Not only is it easier than the chip recipe, you use a small amount of olive oil versus a lot of sunflower oil. We tried it and are very pleased with the results of our hybrid. Crisp exterior, tender interior, and just the right amount of salt in every bite. Be sure not to add salt to the finished potatoes before tasting them!

Serves 2 to 3 (only 2 at our house, but we do live in Ireland)

1
pound potatoes, peeled and cut into 1½- to 2-inch cubes
2
cups water
2
teaspoons sea salt
 
Olive or vegetable oil

  1. Preheat the water bath to 210°F (99°C).
  2. Rinse the cubed potatoes under cold water to remove surface starch. Soak for 15 minutes in cold water, changing the water every 5 minutes.
  3. Drain the potatoes and transfer to a large zip-lock food bag. Combine the water and salt in a bowl and add to the bag with the potatoes. Seal using the water displacement method.
  4. Cook for 20 minutes.
  5. Meanwhile, preheat a conventional oven to 375°F (190°C). Add inch of olive oil to a roasting pan and place in the hot oven for 15 minutes before adding the potatoes.
  6. Remove the potatoes from the bag, discarding the liquid, and pat dry with a clean, lint-free kitchen towel or layers of paper towels.
  7. Add the potatoes to the hot oil and roast in the conventional oven for 1 to 1½ hours, turning every 20 minutes, until nicely browned.
  8. Transfer the potatoes to a layer of paper towels on a plate and they are ready to serve. Don’t add salt before tasting, as the salt used in cooking them should provide all the seasoning they need.

2 comments to Roasted Potatoes via Blumenthal and Thornton

  • Nice recipe – what type of potato did you use for this?

    • Heston Blumenthal uses Maris Piper, an English “floury” variety — similar to our russet. Tom and Linda did their original variation with an heirloom potato from Germany, not readily available here in the States, but they served them to us in California made with good old Yukon Golds, and they were fantastic. Short answer: a floury type such as a russet is always good for baked or roasted potatoes. But in this preparation, the variety probably isn’t critical to success.