Music Pairings

The Essential Donovan

Blame it on mellow yellow or flower power: we enjoy listening to Donovan while we cook cauliflower. Most of his 1960s and 70s recordings have aged very well, reminding us of his gifts as a writer and singer, elevated by imaginative production from Mickie Most and performances from some of England’s best session musicians, including Jeff Beck plus half of what would become Led Zeppelin.

Originally lumped with Bob Dylan, Donovan quickly forked away from the angry-troubadour-with-harmonica mode, exploring psychedelia, jazz, rock, poesy, and even children’s songs. A few tunes are cloying, but his best music is rich and rhythmic, ranging from deeply sad to joyful without a hint of artifice.

Some of our favorites: “Colours,” “Sunshine Superman,” “Season of the Witch,” “Sunny Goodge Street,” “Mellow Yellow,” “Young Girl Blues,” “Wear Your Love Like Heaven,” “Jennifer Juniper,” “House of Jansch,” “Bert’s Blues,” “The Fat Angel,” “There Is a Mountain,” “Barabajagal.”

You’ll find most of these on “The Essential Donovan.” If you like Donovan as much as we do, you’ll also want to get the “Summer Day Reflection Songs” album, which collects his earliest acoustic recordings.

  • Catch the Wind
  • Colours
  • Summer Day Reflection Song
  • Universal Soldier
  • You’re Gonna Need Somebody on your Bond
  • Turquoise
  • Sunshine Superman
  • The Trip
  • Legend of a Girl Child Linda
  • Season of the Witch
  • Ferris Wheel
  • Mellow Yellow
  • Young Girl Blues
  • Museum
  • Hampstead Incident
  • Sunny South Kensington
  • The Land of Doesn’t Have to Be
  • Epistle to Dippy
  • There Is a Mountain
  • Wear Your Love like Heaven
  • Sun
  • Isle of Islay
  • Sunny Goodge Street
  • Sand and Foam
  • Jennifer Juniper
  • Hurdy Gurdy Man
  • Get Thy Bearings
  • Lalena
  • To Susan on the West Coast Waiting
  • Atlantis
  • Goo Goo Barabajagal
  • Happiness Runs
  • Riki Tiki Tavi
  • Celia of the Seals
  • I Like You
  • Hey Gyp

Get it on iTunes and Spotify.

Cauliflower in Spicy Yogurt with Spinach and Cashews

Cauliflower in Spicy Yogurt with Spinach and Cashews

I’m not much of a fan of either cauliflower or broccoli unless it’s raw. The texture and especially the aroma while cooking just don’t appeal to me. However, I do love both vegetables in Mediterranean or Indian dishes. Somehow they’re always tender but not overcooked, with plenty of flavor.

Recently a friend served me a simply wonderful preparation of what I’d call a Tandoori-style cauliflower. The vegetable was first blanched in hot water and then refreshed under cold water. The spices and chiles were combined with the yogurt, the cooled cauliflower was folded into the yogurt mixture and placed on a baking sheet, then covered and refrigerated for 2 hours. Next it was baked in a hot oven for about 15 minutes.

The results were delicious, but I thought I’d give it a try sous vide. Basically I used her recipe but simplified it by mixing everything together, transferring to a food bag, and cooking in my SousVide Supreme for 40 minutes.

The sous vide preparation was quick and easy, and the cauliflower was flavorful and cooked perfectly al dente. You’ll need a spice blend called Chaat Masala; you can find it in some Asian markets or it’s easy to make yourself and store for future use.

Chaat Masala: In a small sauté pan over medium heat, toast until aromatic: 2 teaspoons cumin seeds, 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, ½ teaspoon fennel seeds, and ½ teaspoon black peppercorns. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Grind in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Combine with 3 teaspoons sea salt, 1 teaspoon garam masala, ½ teaspoon ground ginger, ½ teaspoon dried thyme, ¼ teaspoon cayenne, and ¼ teaspoon paprika. Store in an airtight container for up to 6 months. Makes about cup.

Serves 2 as a vegetarian main course or 4 as a side dish

1
cup whole fat yogurt
1
teaspoon tomato purée
2
jalapeños or other green chiles, deseeded and finely chopped
2
scallions, sliced
2
cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1
teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
1½
teaspoons ground turmeric
1
teaspoon chaat masala (see recipe above)
1
teaspoon ground coriander
1
teaspoon ground cumin
1
teaspoon garam masala
½
teaspoon paprika
1
teaspoon sea salt
1
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1
medium cauliflower, trimmed and cut into florets

2
tablespoons olive oil
1
medium red onion, peeled and cut into ¼-inch slices
½
cup toasted cashew nuts, left whole or coarsely chopped
1 to 2
cups baby spinach, washed and dried

  1. Preheat the water bath to 183° (84°C).
  2. Combine the first 14 ingredients in a large bowl, mixing well. Add the cauliflower and stir until coated with the marinade. Place the prepared cauliflower in a large food bag and seal using the water displacement method.
  3. Cook for 40 minutes.
  4. Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan heat the olive oil on medium-high heat and add the onion slices. Reduce the heat to medium and continue to sauté until the onion is caramelized, about 30 minutes, reducing the heat to low when the onion begins to brown. Keep warm until the cauliflower is ready.
  5. Transfer the cooked cauliflower to the sauté pan with the caramelized onions, discarding any bag juices, and add the cashews. Stir and remove from the heat. Add the spinach and stir for about 30 seconds. Serve as a side dish or a vegetarian entrée.